Comparison Cort AD mini-M vs Cort AD810

The overall size of the body of the guitar.

This parameter is used to select the instrument according to the personal characteristics of the musician. Even adult guitarists can vary greatly in body type, not to mention children of different ages learning to play the guitar. Accordingly, guitars for different people should have different sizes.

It is customary to indicate the size as a fraction: for example, the largest guitars are indicated as 4/4(full size). A smaller number, accordingly, denotes a smaller case, although the proportion is not strict. For example, the total length of a classical guitar (see "Type") in 4/4 is usually 1 m, and in 3/4 is 885 mm.

The smallest instruments on the market today are 1/8. They, as well as the slightly larger 1/4, are intended for children up to 6 years of age. For the age category of 6 – 9 years, the best tool is 1/2, at 9 – 11 years old — size 3/4, for teenagers and people of petite build, models 7/8 are produced, and full 4/4 are designed for boys and adults of average and large build. At the same time, all these recommendations are rather conditional, and in fact it is worth considering not only age, but also the specific specifics of each person: for example, a 4/4 guitar that has grown up quickly at the age of 13 may be quite suitable.... It is also worth remembering that the shape of the body also significantly affects the dimensions of the guitar (see “Shape (view”)).

A special protective pad that protects the soundboard from accidental contact with the pick.

The pickguard is usually located at the sound hole below the strings (if the guitar is considered in the standard playing position). With a dynamic, aggressive performance (especially when playing chords), it is in this place that the pick clamped in the hand most often hits; hitting an unprotected body causes damage to the surface of the body, which degrades the appearance and acoustic characteristics of the guitar. Pickguard prevents such damage: such an overlay is usually made of a hard material that is resistant to contact with most picks. Accordingly, the presence of this part is highly recommended if you plan to use the pick extensively when playing.

Note that the protective overlay usually differs in colour from the main material of the deck, due to which it is clearly visible.

The material from which the top of the guitar is made is the flat part of the body on which the bridge (see below) and the sound hole are located.

A wide variety of materials are found in modern guitars — from spruce, maple or cedar, which are familiar in our latitudes, to expensive mahogany and “exotics” like bubinga (“African rosewood”) or koa, which grows only in Hawaii. Each material has its own characteristics that affect the sound and other properties of the instrument (for example, appearance and durability). However, the sound of a guitar largely depends on a number of other factors besides the material — the type of instrument, the shape of the body, etc. Therefore, models made of similar materials may well sound noticeably different. In addition, note that expensive woods can be used solely for aesthetic purposes and have no advantages over cheaper materials.

In light of all this, we can say that the data on materials are more of a reference value, and when choosing, it is more likely to focus on more significant characteristics (for example, the same body shape), as well as practical data about the tool (reviews, reviews, audio recordings of the game etc.). Detailed data on materials may be required only by professional musicians, luthier masters, etc.; this information, if desired, can be found in special sources.

The number of frets provided on the neck of the guitar.

The fret is the gap between the two nut on the fretboard. By pressing a finger on the string in this gap, the guitarist changes the pitch of the string: the farther the fret (from the headstock) — the shorter the string is and the higher the sound.

The more frets, the more notes the guitarist can take on each string and the more possibilities the instrument gives. On the other hand, for numerous frets, a fretboard of the appropriate length is needed, which affects the dimensions and cost of the instrument, and sometimes it is simply not justified: for example, ordinary guitars have at least 18 or 20 frets, while among ukuleles (see "Type ”), there are models for 12 – 16 frets.

In general, it makes sense to specifically look for an instrument with numerous frets if you plan to play complex solo parts on it; for playing chords, as well as relatively simple performance by notes, the number of frets does not play a special role.

Scale length of the guitar. The scale in this case is the working part of the string, in other words, the distance from the saddle (on the headstock) to the saddle (on the bridge). In most acoustic and similar guitars, the scale is set during production and is unchanged. Without going into technical details, we can say that the value of this parameter is generally a reference: it allows you to some extent estimate the overall dimensions of the instrument, as well as the size of the frets (the longer the scale, the larger the size of the frets, regardless of their number). However, there is also a practical application: with an adjustable anchor (see above), the scale length data can be useful in the tuning process.

The presence of a case or cover in the tool delivery kit (what exactly is included in the kit must be specified in each case separately).

A case is called a case made of hard materials, a case is made of soft materials, this is the main difference between these types of accessories. Otherwise, they are similar: both the case and the cover are provided primarily for the convenience of transporting the tool. To do this, the design provides for handles, shoulder straps and other devices that facilitate carrying, as well as compartments for additional accessories (replaceable strings, tuners, etc.). However, it is desirable to store the tool in a case or case — to protect it from dust and other adverse factors.

The “native” case/case is good because it optimally fits a specific guitar model and is immediately sold with it, saving the owner from unnecessary searches. On the other hand, manufacturers often include the simplest types of cases in the kit, with minimal additional features and a very limited degree of protection. This is especially true for cases that can be made of thin material and are only suitable for short-distance movements in warm weather without rain. Therefore, sometimes it makes more sense to buy a case separately.