Caliber
A caliber can be described as the type of movement used in a watch. It is expensive and impractical to design a unique movement for each watch model, so most manufacturers often use the same movement in different watch models, sometimes with significantly different designs. The term "caliber" is due to the fact that initially the type of movement was designated by a number (in inch lines) corresponding to its largest size; however, today unique names or alphanumeric indices that are not directly related to sizes are widely used.
Knowing the name of the caliber on which the watch you are interested in is built, you can, if desired, find more detailed information about the mechanism and determine how its characteristics meet your requirements.
Power reserve indicatior
An indicator showing how long the watch can run without winding, changing the battery, recharging, etc. It is found in models with any type of mechanism (see the relevant paragraph). Although the
power reserve indicator is quite approximate, it still makes it easier to monitor the status of the device and reduces the risk of being left without a working watch at the wrong time.
Note that the End Of Life function (see below) in this case is not considered a power reserve indicator, although its role is generally similar.
Dial colour
Clock face background colour. Indicated for models with pointer or combination dials (see "Dial type"); in purely electronic models, usually, either a grey substrate (for conventional LCDs) or a dark base (for LEDs) is used.
The most popular in modern watches are
black,
white,
silver and
blue dials. However, in addition to this, other shades can be found on the market — in particular,
beige,
yellow,
green,
golden,
brown,
red,
orange,
pink,
grey and
purple. A special case are watches with chameleon glasses (see below).
Some models are available in several colour options, in such cases these options are listed separated by commas — for example, "white, red, silver." If the dial is painted simultaneously in 2 or 3 colours, they are indicated as a combination — for example, "white with red" or "white with yellow and red". And multi-coloured models include models in which more than 3 colours are used for the dial.
Case material
— Brass. Inexpensive material used mainly in watches of the corresponding price category. The composition is an alloy based on copper and zinc. Brass bodies have a pleasant golden colour, but their resistance to corrosion is usually very low. Because of this, such watches darken very quickly, and oxides can stain the wearer's skin and even lead to irritation. To correct the situation, various protective coatings, stainless steel covers, etc. can be used; however, even these measures are not able to completely eliminate this drawback.
—
Stainless steel. Inexpensive and at the same time very practical material found in watches of all price categories. "Stainless steel" looks good, perfectly resists corrosion and scratches, retains its presentation for a long time and does not cause allergies. However it has a rather large weight, but for many users, the massiveness of the watch is an advantage, not a disadvantage.
—
Titan. Premium material used in watches of the corresponding price level. Titanium alloys combine lightness and high strength, in addition, they are less thermally conductive than steel, due to which they do not “cool” the hand. They are practically not subject to corrosion, do not require protective coatings and are hypoallergenic. On the other hand, such cases are quite sensitive to scratches.
—
Plastic. Common features of all types o
...f plastic are ease of processing, relatively low cost, low weight, hypoallergenicity, moisture resistance and poor thermal conductivity. For a number of reasons, this material is considered optimal primarily for sports watches, including “diving” (waterproof) watches. At the same time, it should be noted that many types of plastic are used in modern watches, including high-strength varieties that are not inferior in reliability to steel. Therefore, this material is found in all price categories, from low-cost to top; The quality of the case is usually directly related to the cost of the watch.
— Aluminium. "Watch metal", considered a little more advanced than stainless steel. The aluminium alloy is also durable, resistant to corrosion and scratches, and has a solid appearance. At the same time, on the one hand, it is noticeably lighter, on the other hand, it is more expensive.
— Copper. By itself, copper has a pleasant reddish-brown tint, but it does not tolerate prolonged contact with the skin — the surface begins to oxidize, which leads not only to skin contamination, but also to irritation. Therefore, this material is usually used in combination with protective coatings. In fact, it has no advantages over the same "stainless steel", and therefore it is used quite rarely — and not so much for practical or even aesthetic reasons, but in order to distinguish watches from other models.
— Carbon. Composite material, in fact, is high-quality plastic: carbon fiber strands filled with polymer filler. Carbon is notable for its combination of low weight with very high strength; in general, it surpasses even steel in reliability; at the same time, it has many advantages of plastic, such as moisture resistance and low thermal conductivity. The disadvantage of such housings, in addition to high cost, is sensitivity to point impacts.
— Ceramics. Ceramics are various materials obtained by sintering and firing at high temperatures. Watch cases are usually made of high-quality ceramics, which are distinguished by their solid appearance and very high scratch resistance, and they cost accordingly. At the same time, they are quite sensitive to shocks, so a ceramic case is often combined with a stainless steel or other metal back cover.
— Gold. The case is made of jeweler's gold or has a gold-plated finish. Note that the colour of such a case can be different: in addition to the classic yellow, there are also white and red gold. Anyway, such watches are very expensive, and look accordingly; they are designed mainly for those who need not so much a device for determining the time as a rich fashion accessory.
— Silver. Although cases made of silver jewelry are much cheaper than gold ones, this material still belongs to the status ones, and is used not so much for practical reasons, but as a symbol of the high cost of watches and the wealth of their owner. However, for a number of reasons, silver has not received much popularity in watches.
— Wolfram. Tungsten alloys are not cheap, but they are very strong and reliable, and also look stylish. Another feature of this material is its very high melting point; from the practical point of view, this point is not significant, but it is important as a fashion detail, emphasizing the high reliability of tungsten. At the same time, for a number of reasons, such alloys are not widely used in watches.
— Bronze. Quite a rare and specific option, used similarly to copper — in order to give the watch a stylish look. The basis of bronze, in fact, is copper, and tin is most often added to this alloy, but other components can also be used. Accordingly, the colour of such material can be different — yellowish, reddish, brown.Colour
The main colour of the watch case.
Modern watches are quite diverse in colour options. The most widespread models are in shades of "
stainless steel ",
golden and
black ; however, in addition to this, on the market you can find, in particular,
white,
yellow,
green,
brown,
red,
orange,
pink,
silver,
grey,
blue and
purple cases.
In general, the colour of the case is a fairly obvious parameter; Let's note only some of the nuances associated with marking:
— Multi-coloured models include models in which there is no clearly defined primary colour. If there is such a colour, it is indicated in the characteristics. And for two-tone cases, an additional colour can be specified, for example, "stainless steel
with gold " or "black
with blue "
— Silver, among other things, are plastic cases without additional coloring.
— "Stainless steel" in this case is a colour, not a material; other metals (e.g. alumin
...ium and titanium) that are not complemented by PVD coating (see “Case Coating”) may have this shade. And the cases of gold watches, in turn, are not necessarily made of gold — red and white gold are also used in jewelry.
— Camouflage coloring is indicated separately — such watches are designated as "military", and here, again, the main shade of the coloring is given. However, not every military model has camouflage on the body; see below for details.Waterproof
As the name suggests, this parameter determines the degree of resistance of the watch to moisture. It is traditionally stated as the maximum depth under water at which the watch is able to remain watertight; however, it must be borne in mind that this number is very arbitrary. The fact is that when calculating the maximum immersion depth, only the static pressure of water is taken into account, that is, the pressure at complete immobility; at the same time, any movement creates dynamic pressure, which significantly increases the load on the body. In practice, this means that a mark of, for example, 50 m does not mean that you can dive to a depth of 50 m with a watch.
Modern water protection markings correspond to the following practical possibilities:
—
30 m(same as “Water Resistant” without any numbers). Entry level, drops of water are allowed, but not strong splashes. For example, such a watch can be left on in the rain or when washing, but when showering or washing a car, it should be left in a safe place. Of course, there is no talk of immersion in water.
-
50 m. Minimum water resistance, allowing the watch to be immersed in water. These watches can usually be used for swimming, and in some cases even jumping into the water (but not from towers), but they are not suitable for more serious tasks like surfing, snorkeling or scuba diving. As a rule, buttons are not allowed to be
...used underwater.
- 100 m. This degree of water protection allows not only swimming, but also diving to shallow depths, however, it is still considered insufficient for surfing, jumping from towers and scuba diving.
- 200 m. Watches with such water protection are classified as “divers”; models and can withstand scuba diving to depths of up to 20 m.
- 300 m or more. Professional diving models suitable for diving to significant depths.
Please note that the characteristics described are approximate. Specific indicators of water resistance and the possibility of using the watch with water should be clarified according to the official data of the manufacturer.Shockproof
The watch has anti-shock properties that allow it to endure, in particular, falls from a fairly large height (from a metre or more). The specific degree of such protection for different models can vary significantly; usually, it is indicated in the official specifications as the maximum height from which the watch can be safely dropped on a flat surface. It is worth noting that shockproof properties are not an absolute guarantee against damage — for example, falling with a dial on a sharp stone, even from a “safe” height, can end sadly. However, such models are anyway more reliable than those for which these properties are not claimed.
Shock-resistant watches will be useful, first of all, to those who regularly have to stay in difficult conditions: builders, climbers, military, etc.
Frostproof
Watches with increased resistance to low air temperatures.
Such conditions are not favorable for either mechanical or quartz watches: in "mechanics" cold changes the properties of individual parts and leads to desynchronization of the mechanism, and in quartz watches it can also accelerate battery discharge. To avoid these annoyances, modern watches may include various design features that reduce the likelihood of failures in cold weather. This is, at a minimum, improved thermal insulation of the case; and in models with hands (including quartz), special materials with a minimum coefficient of thermal expansion can also be used for individual parts of the movement.
Separately, it is worth recalling that watches are usually worn close to the body (hand), and in cold weather they are most often also covered with a sleeve of clothing — as a result, the temperature at the location of the watch is noticeably higher than that of the surrounding air. And additional thermal protection significantly affects the cost. Thus, it makes sense to specifically look for
frost-resistant watches if they are planned to be used in a "harsh" environment — with frequent frosts of -30 °C and above, during mountaineering ascents, long (from several days) winter hikes, etc. n. And for everyday use in a relatively mild climate, ordinary, non-frost-resistant models are quite suitable.
Dirtproof
Watches with special protection against dirt.
This feature implies not only a high degree of water protection, but also an increased resistance to various contaminants — earth, sand, liquid dirt, etc. In this case, it is usually not only about preventing the penetration of dirt into the case, but also about so that the dial, even when heavily soiled, remains well readable, and if desired, the watch can be easily cleaned. In addition, such models as a whole are usually characterized by high strength and reliability. Most often they are positioned as solutions for extreme tourism and other adverse conditions and are equipped with many additional features — such as a compass, altimeter, barometer, GPS tracker, etc. (see "Features").